Insulation Contractor in Kimberly, ID - Even Heat in Older and Newer Homes

That's the city's call, and Kimberly's Building Department issues permits for work like alterations, remodels, repairs and additions without naming insulation on its own, so you can reach the city at 208-423-4151 to be sure. We talk it through with you at the estimate, and when we're not sure, we check with the Building Department before we start. If the city does want a permit, an alteration or repair application carries a $100.00 deposit that isn't refunded but goes toward the permit fee.

Yes, if the job runs over $2,000 in materials and labor, because the Idaho Contractors Board registers anyone taking on that size of construction job unless they're exempt. A contractor who should be registered and isn't can't get a building permit, and a registered contractor has to show the registration number on contracts and advertising. A homeowner doing their own work on their own land, with no plan to sell within 12 months, is exempt, and we're fully licensed and insured.

It comes down to what's already up there and what has to happen before new insulation goes in, so you'll get your own number at the estimate. Pulling out old material that's soaked or full of droppings, sealing gaps around lights and pipes, and working in a tight attic with a small hatch all add to the job. An attic that's dry and just thin costs less to bring up than one that has to be cleared first.

It needs to come out if it's been soaked, matted down by a leak or filled with droppings, because new material on top keeps the moisture and the mess right where they are. Insulation that's just flattened or thin can usually stay and be topped up. I check for this at the estimate, along with eave vents buried under old fill and attics piled deep in the middle and thin at the edges, which is backward.

When the ductwork lives in the attic, spray foam on the underside of the roof is usually worth the extra cost, because it seals air and brings the ducts inside the insulated space in one step. Without ducts up there, we usually recommend sealing the gaps and topping up loose fill, since that does most of the same work for less. I'll tell you which one your attic calls for and why.

You stay out until the foam maker's re-entry time has passed, which is the wait before it's safe to come back inside, and that depends on the product. We tell you the hours before we start so you can plan for the kids and pets. With blown-in insulation or air sealing, you can usually stay home while we work.